Is Indonesia’s Nihi Sumba the world’s best beach retreat? The acclaimed barefoot luxury resort has won numerous awards for its beauty as well as its consideration of Sumba’s people and culture.

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Mr. Nihi claims to be on the “edge of the wilderness.” The drive there is not particularly picturesque. Both sides of the road are lined with small shops, schools, and traditional thatched huts where villagers lounge on their phones. When our driver stopped at the top of the hotel driveway, we finally got a glimpse of the dramatic coastline below.

This resort has the feel of a surprisingly upscale village tucked away in the jungle. Winding stone paths planted with cacao and banyan trees and other native plants connect the villas to key areas including the restaurant, boathouse bar, beach club and pool. All dining spots have sand-covered floors and expansive ocean views. The atmosphere is more barefoot and luxurious than in Saint-Tropez. In fact, you can immediately tell which guests have arrived since they are the only ones still wearing their shoes.

When it comes to architecture, if you’re a fan of minimalist, modern aesthetics, Nihi isn’t for you. Each villa is unique, with dark wood paneling, giant canopy beds, freestanding bathtubs, carvings, antiques, and Ikat Print. It has a rustic exterior with some modern amenities, including a high-pressure rain shower and powerful air conditioning. All villas come with private plunge pools, but the real draw is the long beach with uninterrupted views and access to the Indian Ocean.

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Life here moves at a slower pace, but even if you’re not into surfing, fishing, or water sports, there’s plenty to do outside of the resort. Independent travel is almost non-existent on Sumba, so the hotel’s list of tours ranges from waterfall hikes and mountain biking to local village visits, art tours and more. Ikat Weaving workshop.

A must-do for many, a spa safari is a Robinson Crusoe-like experience that combines health and luxury. Intrigued, we booked the half-day version. Start with his 1.5 hour trek through rice fields at 7:30am (less adventurous guests can also go by car). We eventually arrived at Nihioka, a secluded spot on the edge of a cliff above the sea. It has the feel of a movie set, a completely private world yet open to wide views and cool breezes.There are separate bales These include a pavilion, an infinity pool, a “secret” villa for overnight stays, a small treetop restaurant, and another beautiful beach perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Here, guests can enjoy as many spa treatments as they like at their leisure while the waves crash on the shore below.

But our most memorable moments are those at the resort itself. Guests and staff gather each evening at the boathouse in the heart of Nihi. Many people choose to sit on the huge stone steps leading down to the beach and listen to music while talking about their day or nibbling some fresh satay from the barbecue. Some are wearing robes, others decked out in designer clothes, but everyone feels at ease. We feel close, as if we are one big happy family, but in reality we are strangers lucky enough to connect in a foreign place that feels like a second home. It’s a person.

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The story of Nihi would not be complete without mentioning the island’s horses. They have traditionally played an integral role in cultural activities, such as the annual Pasola Festival, where hundreds of jockeys stage mock battles, but Nihi also has its own collection of mostly retired racehorses. There are stables and guests can ride horses along the beach in a more peaceful setting.

My favorite part of the day is when the herd hurtles toward the ocean, and the sound of thundering hooves quickly turns into the sound of waves. There’s a thrill like watching fireworks as a child, and the scene repeats itself every day, and each time it takes my breath away.

One of the true luxuries of travel is the ability to temporarily connect with local communities and their way of life, and Nihi incorporates this into the daily lives of its guests. Unlike many other resorts, more than 90% of her 400 staff, including the “guest captain” assigned to guests, are local Sumbanese, all of whom have a history of childhood on the island or ancestry in Marapu. are encouraged to share stories about their religion. Through daily chats during meals and organized activities, we learn about Sumbanese culture.

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And then there’s the Sumba Foundation, founded by the original owners, Mr. and Mrs. Graves, which still maintains close ties to the hotel. Guests can visit the foundation and learn more about their work, which includes building schools, clinics, water purification projects, and more. You can also teach English classes at local schools and provide nutritious meals for children. This pay-it-forward ethos is becoming an essential element for travelers who want to make a positive impact on the destinations they visit, and the Sumba Foundation provides an inspirational blueprint for others to follow. I am.

As an avid (and often bored) traveler, I’m well aware that places change quickly, especially as they grow in popularity. Second visits are rarely as memorable as the first. When I mentioned this to my guest captain, Maxi, at the end of the trip, he replied: “Time stands still in Sumba, so when you return, the magic remains.” After experiencing the place for myself a little, I’m starting to believe him.